Overlanding from Namibia to Angola was a complete gamble. What we knew was that this southern African nation was a Portuguese colony for around 400 years and had been embroiled in a civil war that lasted decades until 2002. To organize our Angola trip, we thought we’d reach the border town of Rundu, Namibia, gather local information on how to get to and navigate the nearby town of Calai…but we couldn’t locate anyone who had traveled there! Google Maps suggested an eight-hour detour to cross the river, and Booking.com yielded no hotel options…but this only fueled our curiosity and eagerness to discover Southern Angola!
Namibia-Angola Border Crossing at Calai
As we crossed the footbridge over the Okavango River, we parted ways with Namibia and said ola to Angola. The immigration officer spoke solely Portuguese, so in our best Portuñol pidgin, we articulated that our four-day trip to Angola was for “ferias” (holiday purposes) and heard the satisfying sound of a stamp marking our passport. We might have been “in” but were clueless about what lay ahead.
A swarm of moto taxis beckoned us. Thus, with no cars in view, our only option was to hop on with a stranger and hope we shared the same destination. Vrrrooom, we sped through the sandy roads and arrived in central Calai: two streets lined with shops, an outdoor market, a Portuguese bar…and a single guesthouse!
Where to Stay in Calai
We pushed open the tall gate to the secured Tchingwali Guesthouse, and we were delighted to discover a tropical garden, an extensive restaurant, and pleasant rooms with AC and en-suite baths for $16. Who would have thought?! As vegans who didn’t speak Portuguese, it proved somewhat challenging to identify the best plant-based dishes. Maize porridge is central to most meals in Southern Africa and goes by many names (pap, ugali, funge, etc.), often prepared thick enough to scoop up with accompanying vegetables and meat. We ordered funge and savored it with sides of wild spinach with peanuts and slow-cooked beans. After our meal, we ordered another round of Cuca beer, simply because we adored the local tradition of cerveja and a bottle opener delivered in a wicker basket.
Government Permission to Explore
We understood Calai wasn’t a tourist hotspot, but with the renowned Okavango River, we anticipated some aquatic adventures in our plans. We inquired at our guesthouse about arranging a boat trip, and they advised, “Nowhere that we know of, maybe ask at the dock.” They omitted the fact that the “dock” was actually a naval base, and they weren’t quite welcoming to unexpected visitors.
After conversing with several officers and undergoing intense questioning (“Are you aiming to cross to Namibia? Why do you wish to canoe if you’re not fishing? Are you a proficient swimmer? You are aware that the river is teeming with crocodiles, correct?”), they became receptive to our notion of a dugout canoe trip with a local fisherman…and they even wanted a selfie to commemorate our adventure!
Dugout Canoeing the Okavango River
Wearing the fire department’s life vests, we teamed up with Segunda for his maiden attempt at river-guiding. He had never carried passengers in his canoe but was intimately familiar with the river, showcasing fun eddies, stunning islands, and hippo hideouts. We gave him a generous tip and shared (the finest!) malasada donuts to celebrate what might evolve into a new chapter in his career as a waterman. To facilitate this, we introduced him to the Tchingwali Guesthouse team so they could direct future guests to participate in an Okavango canoe expedition with the wonderful Segunda!
Road Tripping Southern Angola
Next, we needed to set up a road trip to delve deeper into Angola! There were just a few non-governmental vehicles in town, and the best truck happened to be located at our guesthouse. We took a shot and asked the owner, Peter, if he’d be open to showing us around the Southern Angola countryside. This unforeseen request was met with an even more significant offer to accompany him the next day on his 120km journey to Dirico with a stop to meet one of the queens of the Cuando-Cubango province! He cautioned us it would be a long day with a bumpy road, but to us, it appeared as a marvelous opportunity. Off we went on a thrilling ride down a one-lane highway, constructed by the Portuguese a century ago and surrounded by deep sand and dense brush. Between the walls of bushes, we caught glimpses of the mighty Okavango River, the occasional cluster of mud-thatch huts, and fields of pearl millet for a picturesque drive.
Visiting with the Queen of Mutango