If you are a train lover, Ecuador has truly tugs at your heartstrings. There were times with no options, followed by significant ones, and then emptiness again for a spell. The train that traverses much of the country between the two largest metropolitan areas was a hallmark infrastructure initiative from a past government, which generated numerous jobs; however, it was halted during the pandemic and has never resumed. Yet, there’s a glimpse of good news in 2025: the Devil’s Nose Train I enjoyed a decade ago is operational once more.
There was an era when individuals traveled by train all over Ecuador, from the capital Quito to Otovalo, Cuenca, and the coastal city of Guayaquil. More than 60 trains departed daily from the principal station in southern Quito.
Then the era of automobiles emerged, which led to the decline of train services in many regions of the Americas, stretching from much of the U.S. down to Patagonia. What made matters worse for Ecuador was its topography: it is a land of steep, elevated mountains. Constructing the railways initially was an immense challenge. Ongoing efforts to clear rockslides and repair tracks after natural calamities demanded more resources than the government was prepared to allocate.
## Experiencing the Devil’s Nose Train Again
Consequently, the journeys were gradually shortened into smaller segments or vanished completely. One of these segments is worth the trip solely for the experience: the Devil’s Nose train (*Nariz del Diablo*) which descends a quite steep mountain. Here’s a video I compiled from my time aboard. (Apologies for the lack of high definition back then.)
This renowned train ride is distinctive due to the engineering difficulties the constructors encountered (which cost the lives of around 2,500 workers), and it incorporates one innovative solution. At one juncture, the train navigates a bend and halts at tracks that terminate. At this point, the tracks are realigned, and the train continues down the mountain, now facing the opposite way: the rear of the train has become the front. This allows it to tackle a steeper incline than it could have otherwise managed. (You can observe this transition in the video above.)
It soon arrives at a restored station within the narrow canyon, where you can potentially spend the night if the lodge is operational. During my visit, I discovered a package that included the train ride down and back, accommodation, and two meals for an exceptionally reasonable $50 per person.
Day visitors can enjoy a bite at a panoramic snack bar located up some steep stairs, which also houses a museum. Local community members perform traditional dances on the train platform, and there’s a woman with a llama for photo opportunities. Sure, it’s a bit cheesy, but enjoyable.
For a brief moment, after the government invested billions on track enhancements and new rolling stock, there was a train service operating between Quito and a point near Guayaquil that you could book as a passenger trip. However, it was poorly planned, lacking great hotel options along the way as you find in Peru on their routes. It operated from 2014 to 2020, but never gained much popularity due to poor marketing and publicity, along with inadequate tourism infrastructure at its stops. They should have pivoted and transformed it into a regular passenger line accessible to all travelers, including locals visiting family, reminiscent of the Maya Train in Mexico.
That did not occur, and when the pandemic struck, the train ceased operations and has not resumed. I suspect there has been some track damage since then, and the current administration does not prioritize repairs. It’s unfortunate since, for a short time, it was among the world’s great train journeys, navigating the “Route of the Volcanoes,” from sea level to 3,000 meters coming from Guayaquil.
I am uncertain if any of the partial routes will reopen. When I traveled on the Devil’s Nose train, I first took a trip from Quito to Cotopaxi and witnessed new government initiatives in progress. There was an revitalized station featuring a charming new café serving excellent coffee, a room detailing the history of railways in Ecuador, and an introductory film about the train system in two languages. The personnel at the station and on the trains were bilingual and donned attractive Tren Ecuador uniforms with a stylish logo. Now the Tren Ecuador website has vanished, so all the staff are likely gone too.
We rattled out of the city, past factories and residences, ascending the hills to a vantage point where we could gaze across parklands and a valley towards snow-dusted mountains on the other side. Upon arriving at Machachi station, a brass band played to greet everyone. No, this wasn’t a special occasion — they did this for every arrival back then.
The current unfortunate condition of the train system isn’t compelling enough to motivate a visit to Ecuador, yet this is featured in both of my books.