**Overlanding from Namibia to Angola: An Expedition into the Unexplored**
Overlanding from Namibia to Angola turned out to be a complete surprise. What we did know was that this southern African nation had been a Portuguese territory for approximately 400 years and had been caught in a civil conflict for decades until 2002. In planning our Angola excursion, we intended to reach the border town of Rundu, Namibia, and gather some local insights about getting to and navigating the nearby town of Calai…but we couldn’t locate anyone who had been there! According to Google Maps, it appeared you had to drive eight hours out of the way to traverse the river, and Booking.com yielded *no* results for lodging…but this only heightened our curiosity and desire to discover Southern Angola!
**Namibia-Angola Border Crossing at Calai**
Crossing the footbridge over the Okavango River, we waved farewell to Namibia and *ola* to Angola. The immigration officer only communicated in Portuguese, so with our best Portuñol pidgin, we conveyed that our four-day Angola excursion was for “ferias” (holiday purposes) and relished the pleasant sound of a stamp echoing on our passport. Although we made it “in,” we had no clue about what awaited us.
A line of moto taxis beckoned us over. Thus, with no cars in sight, our only option was to hop on with a stranger and trust we were en route to the same destination. *Vrrrooom*, we sped down the sandy roads and into central Calai: two streets filled with shops, an open-air market, a Portuguese bar…and a single guesthouse!
**Where to Stay in Calai**
We swung open the tall gate to the secure Tchingwali Guesthouse, and to our delight, we discovered a tropical garden, a full restaurant, and pleasant rooms with AC and private baths for just $16. Who would have guessed?! As vegans who don’t speak Portuguese, it was a bit challenging to discern the best plant-based dishes. Maize porridge forms the base of most meals in Southern Africa and goes by many names (pap, ugali, funge, etc.) and is frequently prepared thick enough to scoop up with the accompanying veg and meat. We ordered *funge*, accompanied by dishes of wild spinach with peanuts and slow-cooked beans. Following our meal, we ordered another round of Cuca beer, simply because we enjoyed the local custom of *cerveja* and the bottle opener brought over in a wicker basket.
**Government Permission to Explore**
We recognized that Calai wasn’t a tourist hotspot, but with the illustrious Okavango River nearby, we expected some aquatic adventures in store. We inquired at our guesthouse about organizing a boat trip, and they responded, “Nowhere we know, maybe ask by the dock.” They neglected to mention that the “dock” was actually a naval base, and they weren’t particularly welcoming to unexpected visitors.
After talking to several officers and enduring a barrage of questions (“Are you trying to cross to Namibia? Why do you want to canoe if you aren’t fishing? Are you a good swimmer? You realize the river is teeming with crocodiles, correct?”), they warmed to our notion of a dugout canoe journey with a local fisherman…and they even desired a selfie to mark our adventure!
**Dugout Canoeing the Okavango River**
Sporting the fire department’s life jackets, we joined Segunda for his inaugural attempt at river-guiding. He had never had passengers in his canoe before but was well-acquainted with the river’s nuances, showing us enjoyable eddies, stunning islands, and hippo hiding spots. We tipped him generously and shared (the finest!) malasada donuts to commemorate what could potentially become a new chapter in his waterman journey. To aid in this, we introduced him to the Tchingwali Guesthouse team so they could direct future visitors on an Okavango canoe expedition with the wonderful Segunda!
**Road Tripping Southern Angola**
Now it was time to coordinate a road trip to discover more of Angola! There were only a few non-governmental vehicles in town, and the best truck fortuitously happened to be at our guesthouse. We took a chance and asked the vehicle owner, Peter, if he would be open to showing us around the Southern Angola countryside. This unexpected inquiry was met with a much grander offer to join him the next day on his 120km journey to Dirico with a stop to meet one of the queens of the Cuando-Cubango province! He cautioned us that it would be a long day with a rugged road, but to us, it sounded like an excellent chance. Off we set on a wild journey down a narrow highway, constructed by the Portuguese a century ago and overrun with deep sand and dense brush. Amidst the walls of foliage, we’d catch glimpses of the mighty Okavango River,