**Overlanding from Namibia to Angola: An Adventure into the Unknown**
Overlanding from Namibia to Angola turned out to be an absolute gamble. All we really understood was that this southern African nation had been under Portuguese rule for approximately 400 years and was caught in a prolonged civil conflict that lasted until 2002. To orchestrate our Angola journey, we decided to reach the border town of Rundu, Namibia, and seek some local insights on how to navigate to and around the adjacent town of Calai…but we couldn’t locate anyone who had experience there! Google Maps indicated that one had to detour for eight hours to cross the river, and Booking.com yielded no accommodations…but this only fueled our curiosity and desire to delve into Southern Angola!
**Namibia-Angola Border Crossing at Calai**
As we crossed the footbridge over the Okavango River, we bid farewell to Namibia and greeted Angola with an “ola.” The immigration officer communicated exclusively in Portuguese, so with our best attempt at Portuñol pidgin, we articulated that our four-day Angola adventure was for “ferias” (holiday purposes) and relished the gratifying sound of our passport receiving a stamp. We may have been “in,” but we remained blissfully unaware of what awaited us.
A fleet of moto taxis beckoned us over. With no cars around, our only option was to hop on with a stranger and hope we were heading in the same direction. Vrrrooom, we zipped through the sandy pathways and reached central Calai: two streets lined with shops, an open-air market, a Portuguese bar…and just one guesthouse!
**Where to Stay in Calai**
We opened the expansive gate to the secure Tchingwali Guesthouse, delighted to discover a tropical garden, a full-service restaurant, and lovely rooms complete with AC and private bathrooms for $16. Who would have guessed?! As vegans unable to communicate in Portuguese, it was somewhat challenging to identify the best plant-based dishes. Maize porridge forms the cornerstone of most meals in Southern Africa and carries various names (pap, ugali, funge, etc.) while often being prepared thick enough to scoop up the accompanying vegetables and meats. We ordered funge, enjoying it with wild spinach mixed with peanuts and slowly cooked beans as sides. After our meal, we ordered another round of Cuca beer, simply because we adored the local custom of cerveja paired with a bottle opener delivered in a wicker basket.
**Government Permission to Explore**
We recognized that Calai wasn’t a tourist hotspot, but with the renowned Okavango River, we assumed there might be some water adventures on the horizon. We inquired at our guesthouse about organizing a boat excursion, but they told us, “Nowhere that we know of, maybe ask by the dock.” They left out that the “dock” was indeed a naval station, and they weren’t particularly welcoming to unexpected visitors.
Upon meeting several officers and undergoing extensive questioning (“Are you aiming to cross into Namibia? Why do you wish to canoe if you aren’t fishing? Are you a proficient swimmer? You do realize the river is filled with crocodiles, right?”), they gradually warmed up to our notion of a dugout canoe trip with a local fisherman…and they even requested a selfie to document our journey!
**Dugout Canoeing the Okavango River**
Wearing fire department life vests, we embarked with Segunda on his inaugural river-guiding adventure. He had never hosted passengers in his canoe but was well-acquainted with the river and pointed out fun eddies, charming islands, and hippo hiding spots. We generously tipped him and celebrated with (the best!) malasada donuts, marking what could become a new chapter in his career as a waterman. To ensure this opportunity continued, we connected him with the Tchingwali Guesthouse team so they could send future visitors on an Okavango canoe expedition with the wonderful Segunda!
**Road Tripping Southern Angola**
Next, we aimed to coordinate a road trip to discover more of Angola! There were only a few non-governmental vehicles in town, and fortunately, the best truck was parked at our guesthouse. Taking a leap of faith, we approached the vehicle owner, Peter, to see if he would accompany us around the Southern Angola countryside. This unexpected proposition led to an even grander invitation to ride along with him the next day on his 120km journey to Dirico, with a stop to meet one of the queens of the Cuando-Cubango province! He cautioned us that it would be a long day along a rough road, but it sounded like an incredible chance to us. Off we went on a thrilling adventure down a narrow highway, constructed by the Portuguese a century prior and engulfed in deep sand and dense brush. Amidst the walls of greenery, we occasionally caught sight of the magnificent Okavango River and the sporadic collections of mud-thatch huts.