Overlanding from Namibia to Angola was a complete gamble. What we understood was that this southern African nation had been a Portuguese colony for nearly 400 years and had experienced a prolonged civil war until 2002. To prepare for this Angola journey, we thought we would reach the border town of Rundu, Namibia, gather some local insights on traveling to and navigating the nearby town of Calai…but we couldn’t find anyone who had been there! Google Maps suggested that crossing the river required an eight-hour detour, and Booking.com yielded no hotel options…but this only heightened our curiosity and desire to discover Southern Angola!
Namibia-Angola Border Crossing at Calai
As we crossed the footbridge over the Okavango River, we bid farewell to Namibia and greeted Angola with a warm ola. The immigration officer only communicated in Portuguese, so in our best Portuñol, we conveyed that our four-day Angola visit was for “ferias” (holiday purposes) and heard the delightful sound of a stamp being applied to our passport. Although we were “in,” we were unaware of what awaited us.
A convoy of moto taxis beckoned us. With no cars around, our sole option was to hop on with a stranger and trust that we were headed to the same destination. Vrrrooom, we zipped along the sandy paths into central Calai: a pair of streets lined with shops, an open-air market, a Portuguese bar…and a singular guesthouse!
Where to Stay in Calai
We pushed open the tall gate of the fortified Tchingwali Guesthouse and were delighted to discover a tropical garden, a fully-equipped restaurant, and comfortable rooms with air conditioning and private bathrooms for just $16. Who would have guessed?! As vegans who didn’t know Portuguese, it was somewhat challenging to locate the best plant-based option. Maize porridge forms the foundation of most dishes in Southern Africa and goes by several names (pap, ugali, funge, etc.), often served thick enough to scoop up with accompanying vegetables and meat. We ordered funge and relished it alongside wild spinach with peanuts and slowly-cooked beans. After our meal, we ordered another round of Cuca beer, purely because we enjoyed the local tradition of cerveja served with a bottle opener brought in a wicker basket.
Government Permission to Explore
We recognized that Calai wasn’t a typical tourist spot, but with the renowned Okavango River, we believed there would be some aquatic adventures awaiting us. We inquired at our guesthouse about arranging a boat trip, and they replied, “Nowhere that we know of, maybe inquire by the dock.” They neglected to mention that the “dock” was actually a naval base, which was not particularly welcoming to unexpected visitors.
After a series of discussions with multiple officers and facing a barrage of questions (“Are you attempting to cross to Namibia? Why do you wish to canoe if you aren’t fishing? Are you a proficient swimmer? You realize the river is teeming with crocodiles, right?”), they eventually accepted our proposal for a dugout canoe journey with a local fisherman…and they even requested a selfie to mark our adventure!
Dugout Canoeing the Okavango River
Wearing the fire department’s life jackets, we teamed up with Segunda for his maiden attempt at river-guiding. He had never taken passengers in his canoe but was intimately familiar with the river and pointed out intriguing eddies, stunning islands, and hippo hideouts. We generously tipped him and shared (the most delicious!) malasada donuts to toast what could potentially become a new chapter in his waterman journey. To facilitate this, we connected him with the Tchingwali Guesthouse staff so they could send future visitors on an Okavango canoe expedition with the wonderful Segunda!
Road Tripping Southern Angola
Now, to organize a road trip to further explore Angola! There were only a few non-governmental vehicles in town, and the best truck just so happened to be stationed at our guesthouse. We took a chance and asked the vehicle owner, Peter, if he would consider showing us around the Southern Angola countryside. This unexpected proposal resulted in an even grander invitation to accompany him the next day on his 120km journey to Dirico, with a stop to meet one of the queens of the Cuando-Cubango province! He cautioned us that it would be a long day and a rough road, but to us, it sounded like an incredible opportunity. Off we set on an adventurous ride down a single-lane highway, constructed by the Portuguese a century ago, and surrounded by deep sand and dense brush. Between thick bushes, we caught sight of the impressive Okavango River, the occasional cluster of mud-thatch huts, and fields of pearl millet for a picturesque drive.
Visiting with the Queen of Mutango