Overlanding from Namibia to Angola was a complete surprise. The only thing we truly understood was that this southern African nation was under Portuguese rule for approximately 400 years and was caught in a long-standing civil conflict until 2002. In preparing for this trip to Angola, we planned to reach the border town of Rundu, Namibia, and gather information from locals about navigating to and around the nearby town of Calai…but we couldn’t find anyone who had visited! Google Maps suggested that we had to take an eight-hour detour to cross the river, and Booking.com yielded no hotel results…but this only fueled our curiosity and excitement to discover Southern Angola!
Namibia-Angola Border Crossing at Calai
Crossing the footbridge over the Okavango River, we bid farewell to Namibia and welcomed Angola. The immigration officer communicated solely in Portuguese, so utilizing our best Portuñol pidgin, we conveyed that our four-day trip to Angola was for “ferias” (holiday purposes) and were greeted with the delightful sound of a stamp landing on our passport. Though we had entered, we were uncertain of what adventures awaited us.
A group of moto taxis beckoned to us. With no cars in sight, our only option was to hop on with strangers and trust we were heading to the same destination. Vrrrooom, we zipped along the sandy paths into central Calai: a couple of streets lined with shops, an outdoor market, a Portuguese bar…and a single guesthouse!
Where to Stay in Calai
We pushed open the tall gate to the secure Tchingwali Guesthouse, and we were happy to discover a tropical garden, a full-service restaurant, and comfortable rooms with AC and private baths for $16. Who would have guessed?! As vegans who didn’t speak Portuguese, it was somewhat challenging to determine the best plant-based dish. Maize porridge serves as the foundation for most meals in Southern Africa and goes by many names (pap, ugali, funge, etc.) and is frequently thick enough to pick up and scoop with accompanying vegetables and meats. We ordered funge, enjoying it alongside wild spinach with peanuts and slowly cooked beans. After our meal, we opted for another round of Cuca beer, simply because we appreciated the local custom of cerveja and the bottle opener delivered by wicker basket.
Government Permission to Explore
We recognized that Calai wasn’t a tourist hotspot, yet with the well-known Okavango River nearby, we anticipated some water adventures in our itinerary. We inquired at our guesthouse about arranging a boat trip, and they replied, “Nowhere we know of, perhaps ask near the dock.” They neglected to mention that the “dock” was essentially a naval base, which wasn’t particularly welcoming to unexpected guests.
After engaging with several officers and undergoing extensive questioning (“Are you attempting to cross into Namibia? Why do you want to canoe if not fishing? Can you swim well? Are you aware that the river is filled with crocodiles?”), they became more receptive to our idea of a dugout canoe trip with a local fisherman…and even requested a selfie to commemorate our outing!
Dugout Canoeing the Okavango River
Wearing life vests from the fire department, we accompanied Segunda on his inaugural river-guiding experience. Though he had never had passengers in his canoe, he knew the river thoroughly and showcased fun eddies, stunning islands, and secret hippo spots. We tipped him generously and shared (the best!) malasada donuts to celebrate what could become a new chapter in his waterman endeavors. To support this, we introduced him to the Tchingwali Guesthouse staff so they could send future guests on an Okavango canoe adventure with the wonderful Segunda!
Road Tripping Southern Angola
Now it was time to set up a road trip to see more of Angola! There were only a few non-governmental vehicles in town, and the best truck just happened to be parked at our guesthouse. We took a chance and asked the vehicle owner, Peter, if he would be willing to show us around the Southern Angola countryside. This unexpected inquiry led to an even grander offer to join him the next day on his 120km journey to Dirico with a stop to meet one of the queens of the Cuando-Cubango province! He cautioned us that it would be a long day and a rough road, but to us, it seemed like an amazing opportunity. Off we set on an adventurous ride down a narrow highway, constructed by the Portuguese a century ago and filled with deep sand and dense brush. Amidst walls of brush, we caught glimpses of the majestic Okavango River, occasional clusters of mud-thatch huts, and fields of pearl millet for a picturesque drive.
Visiting with the Queen of Mutango